It is a glorious time to be curly! But can all these texture-friendly products and trending curl care methods be too much of a good thing? If you find that your waves or curls start to respond negatively to all this well-meaning attention and, instead of hair nirvana, you find yourself burdened with a simultaneous feeling of dryness and oiliness, dullness, and flaking, chances are, you’ve got a case of the Build Up Blues.
What is build up?
Simply put, build up is a gradual accumulation of products on the hair strands. Accumulated build up doesn’t allow necessary moisture, oils, and other nutrients to penetrate your hair. This results in dry, dull, flat hair.
What causes build up?
- Occlusive Ingredients
If a product contains an excessive amount of occlusive ingredients, which create a strong barrier around the hair shaft, it can be difficult to remove with regular washing. These ingredients are not necessarily harmful in and of themselves, but can become so if used excessively. With the notable exception of heat stylers, which need strong film-formers and occlusive ingredients to protect the hair, products should not contain ingredients that are primarily composed of occlusive agents such as petroleum derivatives, lanolin, or heavy silicones.
- Excessive/Incompatible Products
No matter how great the ingredients, if a product doesn’t moisturize your hair on Day 1, re-applying it throughout the week will not improve the situation. In fact, it will dry your hair out and weigh it down with a coating that remains on the outside of the hair shaft rather than penetrating to the interior of the hair where moisture is needed.
- Hard Water
Well or hard water will deposit minerals on the outside of the hair which block moisture and product from penetrating the hair shaft. Hair that’s been washed with hard water generally feels grainy and waxy but also straw-like and dry.
Although co-washing is viewed by many as a gentle alternative to washing with harsh shampoos, it does not completely remove most leave-ins, gels, and oils. Over time, this will lead to build-up and dryness.
How to Beat Build Up:
- Embrace the Cleanse
Regular cleansing with a sulfate-free shampoo, such as Get Fresh! or Get Clean! will remove excess product from the hair without stripping natural oils.
- Rinse & Repeat
Unless it’s labelled as a ‘leave-in’, conditioners are not designed to be left in the hair. Fully rinse your conditioner out to leave your hair receptive and open to the moisturizing leave-ins that you apply during your styling routine.
- Find the Right Product
Given the amount of products on the market, the search for the right product can be overwhelming. Start by reading labels and prioritizing products that contain high quality ingredients near the top and minimal to no occlusive ingredients. (All of our moisturizers, definers, and sealants check this box). Select a handful of contenders, and then assess their performance on your hair before committing to regular use. If a product is compatible with your hair, it should feel smooth going in, enhance your natural curl or wave pattern, and dry clear and shiny. This basic test is the cornerstone of our Seven Point Assessment, which our Experts perform for free at the Original Moxie Salon. However, you can do your own version of the Seven Point by working methodically and paying close attention to your results.
The majority of your product application should occur on freshly washed and conditioned hair. You should not have to repeat a full product application day after day. The right product combination will keep your hair moisturized and defined until the next Wash Day. If you need to refresh mid-cycle, selectively re-wet, rather than re-styling all of your hair, and defer to gels or oils rather than re-applying your moisturizer.
Even a clarifying shampoo may not be sufficient to remove heavy build up. While DIY methods abound, we strongly recommend leaving this job to the professionals. Many of the at-home treatments to remove build up can wind up further damaging the hair. For chronic or severe build up, we offer three detoxes at our Flagship Salon: a Damage Detox, Moisture Detox, and Scalp Detox. We’ll cover each of these treatments in upcoming blog posts and explain how we determine which one is best for various hair types and conditions.
Concerned that you might have the Build Up Blues? The good news is that there is a cure. Once build up is removed, moisture is allowed to penetrate the hair shaft, the hair becomes softer, curls pop, and frizz abates. Et voila! Happy feeling restored.
Hailed as a powerful immune-booster and anti-inflammatory, Turmeric has gotten a lot of press for it’s health benefits. But did you know that, applied topically, it also has immense benefits for the skin and scalp?
This golden, earthy-smelling powder is what gives our Get Clean! No-foam Shampoo is beautiful hue as well as many of its key properties.
Dedicated users of this cult favorite have come to appreciate the way in which it balances oil and moisture for all hair types. This is, in part, thanks to Turmeric’s ability to regulate the production of sebum in the scalp. The active component of the root, Curcumin, possesses anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory, antiallergic, antioxidant, antiseptic and antibacterial properties, and works effectively to correct scalp conditions from Cicatricial alopecia to dandruff.
Original Moxie Founder, Rachel Blistein, attributes the remission of her her lifelong Seborrheic Dermatitis to this one product. So trust us when we say, this is way more than your average no-foam shampoo! It’s truly turmerific ;-).
Everyone’s Hair Tells a Story! What’s Yours? At Original Moxie we understand that each person’s hair is unique and believe that understanding is the key to embracing your own special beauty. Come share your ‘hair story’ with us and choose from one of the following services that we now offer in our Ypsilanti shop.
Stop by anytime for personal advice on which products will bring out the best in your hair. If you like, our experts will guide you in testing out the products in our store to see whether they are right for your hair. (Approx. 5 min.)
Curious as to your hair type and styling needs? We’ll perform a seven-point analysis of your scalp and hair, including density, texture, elasticity, and porosity. Based on our assessment, our experts will recommend products and styling tips that suit your unique hair type profile. (Approx. 15 min.)
Premium Services *
*By Appointment Only. Call 734.340.4022 or email email@example.com to schedule your service today!
Diagnostic Hair Exam…………………………………………………………$25
Using our ProScopeHR2, we’ll incorporate high magnification imaging of the hair and scalp into our Seven Point Assessment. The ProScope will allow us to gather specific data, including damage to the cuticle, and establish a baseline against which you can track future changes in your hair and scalp. Digital copies of your exam results, along with a detailed hair care regimen, will be provided to you at no additional charge. (Approx. 30 min.)
Full Service Hair Consultation ………….…………..……………………… $45
Meet with one of our hair care experts to receive a Seven Point Assessment culminating in a start-to-finish tutorial for heat-free styling and a customized product regimen built just for you! (Approx. 1 hr.)
Full Service Protective Style Consultation …………………………….….$65
Our natural hair expert will begin with a Seven Point Assessment and, using the knowledge gained from that process, show you how to achieve a basic protective style, such as twists, braids, or coils using our luxurious natural hair care products. (Approx. 1.5 hr.)
For many of us, Winter is a time of all kinds of hair and scalp challenges, from hat hair to weird fungal issues that crop up on the scalp. The most common ailment, however, is plain ol’ dandruff. If you suffer from seasonal or year-round dandruff, you know that it often seems to improve after using medicated shampoos, only to resurface in a week or two.
What the big name companies don’t want you to know is that they’re so-called ‘treatments’ may actually be making your scalp condition worse! That is because most dandruff shampoos are chock full of sulfates and harsh chemicals which irritate the scalp. They also tend to address the symptoms and not the root cause (pardon the pun) of the problem. So, while they may get those flakes to disappear for a little while, they are not effectively correcting the imbalance that triggered the dandruff in the first place.
Dandruff is essentially an excess of skin cells on the scalp. This skin ailment is believed to be due to a pesky, but common, fungus called Malassezia. The fungus is typically present in the outer layer of healthy skin, but, in about half of the population, it penetrates the hair follicles and causes irritation. This irritation causes skin cells to shed more rapidly than normal, resulting in the white flakes known as dandruff.
To defeat the fungus, it is essential to maintain a healthy level of sebum (the skin’s natural oils) and a balanced pH on the scalp. A gentle shampoo that does not over-cleanse the scalp is the first step in breaking the cycle of scalp irritation. Our Get Clean! No-foam Shampoo is enriched with Neem and Karanja, two very powerful anti-fungal agents, and does not strip the hair’s natural oils.
Step two is a pH balanced conditioner, such as our Featherweight or Intense Quench. Both restore the scalp and hair to the optimal pH level between 4 and 5, thereby curbing the growth of harmful fungii.
Step three is regular scalp massage with a product such as our Scalp Therapy, which is enriched with a wide array of anti-inflammatory agents and moisturizers. Scalp massage not only loosens any existing flakes, it also stimulates blood flow, thereby aiding the overall resiliency of the follicles and skin.